We live in Turin, and perhaps that is exactly why certain places risk going unnoticed.
You walk past it every day, perhaps heading somewhere else, towards Via Garibaldi or Piazza Castello, without realising that you are crossing one of the oldest and most fascinating corners of the city: Contrada dei Guardinfanti.
Here, Turin feels like a different city. The streets become narrower, the buildings seem to lean closer to one another, and the noise of traffic fades into the background.
It is an unexpected corner of the city, especially if you think of Turin only as an industrial capital or as the city of the Savoy royal residences. The best advice is to wander through these historic alleys and experience the atmosphere of old Turin, where even the small shops still seem to belong to another time.
Where We Really Are: The Medieval Heart of Turin
Contrada dei Guardinfanti is located right in the historic city centre, between Via Barbaroux, Via San Tommaso, Via dei Mercanti, Via Stampatori and Via San Francesco d’Assisi.
It is one of the few areas that still preserves the irregular layout of medieval Turin, dating back to before the major urban planning projects carried out by the Savoy dynasty.
It is not a “monumental” area in the classic sense, but that is exactly where its charm lies: it feels suspended in time, almost protected from the rest of the city.
As you walk along Via Garibaldi, glance at the narrow little streets that cross it. Just turn into one of them, and the magic begins.
Why Is It Called Contrada dei Guardinfanti
The name always intrigues those who hear it for the first time, and the question comes naturally: what does “Guardinfanti” mean?
The guardinfante was a rigid structure that, between the 16th and 18th centuries, was worn under women’s skirts to give the figure volume and width.
In practice, it was a kind of “cage” under the skirt, made with hoops of wood, wicker or metal, used to keep the skirt very wide at the hips.
You can still see it today in carnival costumes, especially princess-style dresses.
At the time, the guardainfante was not only a fashion statement but also a symbol of social status.
The wider the skirt, the greater the prestige it conveyed. It was also associated with modesty and decorum, as its structure physically distanced other people, creating a respectful personal space around the wearer.
In some cases, it even served to conceal a woman’s abdomen, making it difficult to tell whether she was pregnant — an extremely delicate matter in court society. This is where the origin of the name becomes clear: guardainfante, literally meaning “protector of the child.”
Even then, women’s fashion was constantly evolving. Over time, the guardainfante developed into different shapes and styles, becoming known by other names such as the panier in the 18th century and the crinoline in the 19th century.
This area of Turin was home to numerous artisan workshops specializing in clothing, textiles, and fashion accessories, including the production of guardainfanti. The neighborhood also hosted many other trades, whose legacy can still be traced today in local street names and place names.
A Different Side of Turin: Workshops, Crafts, and Everyday Life
Walking through this historic district, you get the feeling of stepping into a very different Turin from the one known for its elegant arcades and grand piazzas. This was the city’s working heart — practical, industrious, and shaped by craftsmen and small businesses.
And the remarkable thing is that it still feels that way today.
The area remains home to a vibrant collection of artisan workshops. Some have been here for generations, while others are more recent, yet all share the same passion for handmade craftsmanship that has managed to withstand the passage of time.
As you wander through the neighborhood, you may come across shops you thought had disappeared long ago. One example is a store dedicated entirely to knitting yarns — something that genuinely surprised me, as I never imagined there were still so many people keeping this traditional craft alive.
The entire district is filled with streets whose names tell stories of work and everyday life. One of the most interesting is Via Stampatori, named after the printers and craftsmen who once worked here, their hands stained with ink as they produced books, documents, and printed materials. It is well worth taking a stroll down this street to admire — and, if possible, step inside — the city’s only surviving 16th-century palace.
With the help of artificial intelligence, I also tried to recreate what this part of Turin might have looked like during the 1500s, populating its streets with noblewomen wearing guardainfanti and local artisans going about their daily work.
What do you think? Would you have liked to live in this fascinating period of history?
Palazzo Scaglia di Verrua: Turin’s Hidden Renaissance Gem
Among the buildings that deserve a closer look in the Contrada dei Guardinfanti, Palazzo Scaglia di Verrua is undoubtedly one of the most fascinating. It is not the kind of landmark that immediately commands attention. There is no grand square in front of it, nor a monumental entrance announcing the treasures hidden within.
Instead, it reveals itself slowly, rewarding those who take the time to look up and appreciate its details.
Built between the late 16th and early 17th centuries, Palazzo Scaglia di Verrua is one of the very few surviving examples of Renaissance architecture in Turin’s historic center.
Its richly decorated façade and elegant inner courtyard offer a glimpse into a refined and cultured city that once flourished behind these walls.
The frescoes, created by Antonino Parentani beginning in 1603, are particularly significant. They represent the only surviving example in Turin of a building façade entirely decorated with frescoes. Looking closely, visitors can still spot landscapes, allegorical figures, and mythological deities framed by elaborate architectural motifs.
Yet the architecture is only part of the story. The people who once lived here led lives so dramatic that they could easily inspire a modern Netflix series.
Jeanne Baptiste d’Albert de Luynes – Countess of Verrua
One of the most memorable figures associated with the palace is the Countess of Verrua, born Jeanne Baptiste d’Albert de Luynes, one of the most unconventional women in 17th-century Turin.
According to historical accounts, she sought to escape the rigid constraints of the Savoy court and an affair imposed upon her by Victor Amadeus II, with whom she had two children in addition to the four she had with her lawful husband. Determined to reclaim her freedom, she reportedly fled to Paris disguised as a man.
Her life reads like an adventure novel filled with scandal, intrigue, independence, and unexpected twists — all set against a backdrop where court politics often mattered far more than personal feelings.
What makes Palazzo Scaglia di Verrua even more special is that it is not simply a historic building to admire from the outside. Today, part of the palace has been transformed into a charming bed and breakfast, allowing visitors to experience Turin’s history firsthand and spend the night within the walls of one of the city’s most remarkable Renaissance residences.
It is a perfect reflection of Turin itself: understated yet captivating, layered with history, and remarkably skilled at preserving its past while giving it new life.
A Brief Timeline of the Contrada dei Guardinfanti
The history of the Contrada dei Guardinfanti can be read as a series of layers, each adding a new chapter to the story of Turin. To better understand its evolution, it can be divided into five key phases:
- The Middle Ages: The district begins to take shape as part of the medieval city, with its network of narrow streets, artisan workshops, and bustling commercial activity.
- The 16th and 17th Centuries: Noble residences start to appear, transforming the neighborhood into a prestigious residential area. Among the most notable examples is Palazzo Scaglia di Verrua, one of the finest surviving Renaissance buildings in Turin.
- The Savoy Era: As Turin expands and undergoes significant urban planning under the House of Savoy, many parts of the city are redesigned and modernized. Remarkably, the Contrada dei Guardinfanti retains much of its original character and layout.
- The 18th and 19th Centuries: The name Guardinfanti becomes firmly associated with fashion and the elaborate skirt structures that were popular among aristocratic women throughout Europe, linking the district to Turin’s long-standing tradition of craftsmanship and textile production.
- Today: The Contrada dei Guardinfanti remains one of the most authentic corners of Turin’s historic center. It is a favorite among travelers seeking a less polished, more genuine side of the city, where history, artisan traditions, and everyday local life continue to coexist.
Why You Should Visit, Even If You’re From Turin
The Contrada dei Guardinfanti is one of those places we always recommend, especially to people from Turin itself.
Because you don’t need to travel far to feel like you’re on a journey — sometimes, all it takes is a change of pace.
Here, Turin tells a different story: one made of subtle details, curious street names, quietly elegant buildings that don’t shout but whisper, and artisan workshops that may seem out of time, yet still have a reason to exist today.
It is the perfect place for a slow, aimless walk — perhaps early in the morning or late in the afternoon, when the light slants between the buildings and brings out their textures and shadows.
This is a Turin that resists time, and perhaps precisely for that reason, it deserves to be paused and truly listened to.
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